The 1957 Barbour 19' Silver Clipper, 2006
Well folks, it's been a while but here are the beginnings of my latest
project.
I found this boat about three years ago whilst driving around a small
local lake in upstate NY. From the road, I thought it was a Thompson
but after tromping through someone's yard to get a better look it turned
out to be a 1957 Barbour 19'. It had NJ numbers on it, last registered
1985.
She was about half full of water (that's good, she doesn't leak!) and
sundry other detritus.
As I was looking her over, the neighbor comes running out yelling
'hey, you want to buy that?'
'Well, I might, if the price is right', I said.
A few days later, I reached the owner.
A deal was cut, and she was mine for $300.00.
When I went to pick her up, the neighbor then proceeded to ask me if
I wanted to sell him the Motor. It was a 1973 Johnson 115, totally
out of character for the boat. The end result was that he took the
motor and I got the boat and trailer for $150.00
I didn't get to do anything with her until this year, for various
reasons, but now I am into a full-scale restoration so that I can use
her up at my Camp.
I'll add a bunch more pics and tales about this boat during the next
few months, but I'm looking to have her in the water by April 1st.
After removing the old
transom, the motor well sideskirts and then shortening the frames
and battens
by 2", I WEST epoxied all of the
exposed surfaces possible, without gluing the strakes. Those I will
do later, after cutting in the new transom -- I wanted to save as much
of the original wood as possible. As I have said from doing the 16,
it was necessary to shorten the boat by 1".
The alternative was to replace all the decks, frames and bottom.
Transom
out!
Epoxy
laid in the deadspace
The
vacuum bilge pump salvaged from the '59 16
2/3/06 Today I also played with WEST White Pigment, with a mind to
fill the deck grooves and thusly never have to deal with re-doing them
every few years. I know....3M 5200......I know.
Sunday 2/4/06 I sanded the test section of White WEST Epoxy groove
and lightly stained up to it.
Yes folks, I know it isn't perfect
it's a test section!
And don't forget that the last 1" of those decks will be removed.
White
Epoxy Test pic 1
White
Epoxy Test pic 2
I like it. I think it'll work famously for my purposes, and add some
strength to the old deck ply.
Over and above the relative ease of maintenance, we must remember that
the decks on these Barbours are laid up from several small pieces of
3/8 plywood and ergo they have seams which are notorious for opening
up and allowing water to seep in underneath the varnish.
I'm thinking that by using epoxy, these seams will have additional
protection from the elements and may prove to be more resistant to
the harsh marine environment. Time will tell!
I want to stain the outer 'plank' of the deck with a dark brown color,
and all the inner 'planks' with the Chris-Craft blonde. It may not
be completely original, but I do know that there were several custom
color schemes offered by the Barbour factory, and these were common
colors for the late 1950's.
Perfect? Perhaps not. But easy on the eyes nonetheless.
This is getting close to being a Blog!
I took a ride to White's Marine in New Hamburg today. Just below Poughkeepsie.
I had been there some 15+ years ago and in the back of my mind I
thought that they may have some old hardware laying around.
After searching through boxes under counters and looking up into
racks of tubed aluminum, I came away with a pair of new old
stock Perko Streamline
cleats to make up what I needed for a full set of 5 (one to follow
from ebay, to make 6), and some nos 1/4" aluminum window retaining
trim.
I now have almost everything I need to replace all of the hardware
with nos parts.
NOS
cleats, aren't they pretty?
The 'shortie' anchor light is for my '59 19' Hardtop project, but nonetheless
it is a wonderful item to locate. They just don't make them like that
anymore!
OK...time for a brief segway. It's too bloody cold out there to work
on her for a few days so let's talk Camp!
My 'second home' is a 26' Camper-trailer up on the Great Sacandaga
Reservoir at a very private and secluded site near Mayfield.
Camp1. This
was just after I set it up.
Camp2. This
was just after I set it up, a different angle.
Camp3. One
more.
Camp4. After
the new permenant roof was pretty much done.
Camp5. The
Lake at dawn. Bear in mind that the Lake is some 34 miles long and
this is just one tiny little private cove!
Camp6. The
Lake in Fall. It's a man-made reservoir designed and built to catch
the run-off from the Hudson and Mohawk rivers to prevent flooding
downstream. Consequently the water level raises and lowers according
to what needs to be done.
I've been going up there for some 15 years or more. There are only
7 trailers, of which only 4 are regularly used.
Then there are 3 rental 'cabins' which also don't get regular use.
It's pretty much a bunch of us who all know each other very well
and get along like a house on fire renting a little piece
of paradise.
I am looking forward to April when Camp re-opens. Most of my weekends
are spent there, and the Walleye fishing can be quite something (if
you know where to go!).
This year my best friend Dot is coming to see why I love it up
there, and my new friend Tom (with????) is probably coming
in June.
Between that and having the '57 19' up and running, this might
prove to be one heck of a good summer.
Segway over, for now. Hope you like the pics!
2/9/06 Back to working on the new transom. Only about 35 degrees today
but sunny and no wind.
There's always something daunting about laying out and cutting the
inner plywood skin for a new Transom. It's really not that hard to
do, but it's still a bit scary!
That's a 3' x 6' piece cut out of a 4x8 1" Marine Grade Mahogany
plywood sheet. 15-ply, no voids. About $120 a sheet!
Inner skin layout
If I can get the old transom out in one piece, I trace around
it and then cut about 1/4 - 1/2" outside of the line.
Rough cut
Then, using a power planer I carefully trim the edges and keep
checking for a good fit. Anything close to 1/8" gap is OK but I aim for 1/16".
The rest will be filled with eopxy when it's ready to be
permenantly installed.
Note the carefully placed screwdrivers to hold the aluminum rubrails
out of the way, and the other one through a screwhole to
stop the sheet from falling out while I mark up the new cuts
which
need to be made.
Test fit
There was a small hook in the bottom of this boat, caused by sitting
on a trailer for too long with the motor still on the transom, so I
left
a small gap varying
from 1/2" at the centerline to 0" at the chines.
When making the final assembly I start by screwing the decks
to the inner skin, then place a car jack under the keel and
lift the hook
out. Then, after all the eopxy has been injected into the edge
seams, I screw the bottm to the plywood, working from the
keel out to the
chines. This procedure removes almost all of the hook, and
then the strakes can be screwed to the inner skin.
It's a little bit tricky to get all the dimensions correct,
but it's well worth the extra effort to remove as much of the
hook as possible
at this point. Remember, once the epoxy cures there's no going
back!
2/11/06. Today was nice
again. A tad chilly at a high of 35, but no wind and mostly sunny.
The calm
before the storm tomorrow
- a possible
up to 8" of snow.
I cut and replaced the Transom Knee today. 1/2" cut off of the back
end, and 3/4" cut from the foot made it perfect but I did have
to drill a new hole so that the keel bolt aligned correctly. Epoxy
filled
the
old hole, just in case she ever does get soaked.
Actually, the vintage Mahogany knee only showed very slight checking
(which I filled with more WEST epoxy) and no dry rot at all.
Kind of surprising, considering that it had laid in a deadspace
for all these
years!
It's a testimony to the old-time boatwrights though. A close
look at the grain pattern of that knee showed how well they
had chosen that
particular piece of lumber. The grain was curved to the knee's
shape, thus reducing any possibility of it failing under
stress.
I installed the knee onto the old keelbolt, and drilled a
new hole through my 1" inner skin. Then I countersank a hole large enough to
accept a 1 1/4" flatwasher, and deep enough to allow the head of
the new bronze bolt to be just below surface of the ply. I feel
sorry for
the poor sob who tries to disasseble this transom!
Here's
what it looks like, installed. The epoxied keel was sanded
thoroughly, and a liberal slathering of fresh epoxy was applied
prior to installing
the knee. Now I know that it's not recommended, but I've
never had a problem doing this:
Add just a little of the stain color you intend to use on the
finishing process to a batch of WEST white shredded cotton
filler and then add
that to the epoxy. It fills any small gaps and doesn't
show when the final finish is applied.
Another segway......Just in case any of you wonder how I'm doing all
this epoxy work in such low temperatures, I keep the WEST indoors until
I'm close to ready to use it. Then, after it's mixed and applied, I
tent the area as needed and heat it for several hours with one
of those little Pelonis ceramic heaters. They're nice for this type
of thing because you can be fairly specific about what you want to
heat, for how long, and at what temperature.
Sneak
Peek of the first outer skin board
2/15/06 I stole a couple of hours this afternoon to work on the second
transom plank installation. This one is the easiest to do because
there are basically only the two end curves to deal with.
I also played around with the C-C Corina stain for a while. I
don't think that it will work for what I want to achieve,
but the jury is
still out. No pics of that, just yet. I want to see how it looks
varnished before I set anything in stone.
2/16/06. I'm
Horn-y and I'm
Horn-y again.
I picked that up last week, but it may need rechroming. Still in all,
it's a nice old Spartan Horn!
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